Berlin Fashion Week | Hannes Kettritz

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Was that one collection or two? Sure, there was something of an 80’s vibe that ran throughout but it wasn’t really enough to hold the whole thing together.

Success came in the form of sportswear, the brightly coloured gym shorts had a Californian beach feel, as did the vests and tees they were matched with.

I really liked the way Hannes Kettritz cut the patterns, creating interesting shapes and incorporating concealed pockets. The same can be said of the bomber jackets, particularly one in grey suede with dropped notched lapels I would have stolen right off the models back. But then there was the tailoring. The broad shouldered, boxy cuts wouldn’t have flattered a cardboard box. When made from shinny twisted yarn fabrics the inspiration appeared to be Elton John – if he had taken a job as a bingo caller.

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Towards the end, as I noticed amused expressions (or bemused maybe?) spreading along the row of faces beside the catwalk, I thought other people were as confused as I was. Then the model turned around, revealing his raincoat had a clear plastic back and that he wore absolutely nothing underneath. This surely wasn’t the same show we started with? In one sense only, was I glad to see the back of it.

An article in collaboration with Derzeit
Text by by James Castle
Photos by Phillip Koll

Berlin Fashion Week | Perret Schaad

Dear readers,
pleats, soft as a toadstool’s gills, on the first skirt. Metallic threads, loosely woven and so fine they threaten to break any moment, on the second.

The Perret Schaad collection combines nature and technology in a celebration of textile design at its most sophisticated. Their cuts are minimalist but utterly impeccable, sculptural with linen-mohair mixes, flowing like veils in crepes and silk.

Their colors are understated in grays, blues and browns, with a glint of turquoise or a shimmer of green. Variation comes first and foremost in the neckline, foregoing collars and framing the cleavage in ever new ways.

Perret Schaad say their designs « capture the hazy, shimmering mood of a summer day ». And I’d have to agree. But you wouldn’t want to wear their delicate silk dresses or those hip-length blazers only on hot days. They are so exquisite, refreshing and self-assured, you’ll want to wear them all year round, and next year, too.

Text by Mareike Nieberding
Photos by Jessica Barthel

This post is a collaboration with Derzeit

 

Berlin Fashion Week | Michael Sontag

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Keen observers of Michael Sonntag, of which I myself am included, have long since realized his work is something of a continuous progression and not open to the fads and whimsy that other designers often follow.

And why should it? You can see there is a clear vision, from someone with the skill to follow it through. He has such a talent for creating silhouettes that appear breathtakingly sculptural and yet perfectly wearable all at once.

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This collection had a slightly more graphic direction than the ones that have preceded it, black and white combined to striking effect. Shades of red, blue and yellow appeared in patches but were used as highlights rather than a focus. I didn’t even mind that the models walked so slowly, it allowed more time to take in the clothes that had a real three-dimensional quality and were interesting from whichever angle you looked at them.

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Generously cut jackets hung off the shoulder, the stiff fabrics creating soft waves across the back. Trousers billowed from the thigh. A number of ankle length silk dresses draped from the neck and weaved into improbable patterns over the models’ bodies.

As always, the whole thing left me excited to see where he goes next.

Text by James Castle for Derzeit
Photos by Jessica Barthel

 

Berlin Fashion Week | Dietrich Emter

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Falling prey to a greater trend of temporal aimlessness, Dietrich Emter’s Spring/Summer 2013 collection mixed influences spanning the entire history of modern fashion without any particular emphasis on a style or trend.

Emter has stuck with his ready-to-wear principles -simple cuts and lines augmented by the strategic use of pleats. Coats, pants, blouses and dresses fall somewhere between futuristic, classic modern and 70s polyester, with no cohesive narrative other than the colors.

Plain white dominated, followed by royal blue and metallic orange, emerging in a slow gradation, first in a colored tree branch pattern, then in nearly monochromatic pieces. In a few short moves, the collection jumped from a simple white minidress with a patterned, pleated corner in the skirt, to a shimmering, retro-future type dress with sharp shoulders and a double-wide clasped belt at the waist.

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The pieces de resistance, though, were a series of maxi and mini dresses reminiscent of mother-and-me nightgown sets from an old Quelle catalogue -and just in case you forget who designed it, Emter has helpfully stamped his tree branch mosaic with his initials.

Text by Tara Dominguez for Derzeit
Photos by Jessica Barthel

Berlin Fashion Week | Vladimir Karaleev

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I would love to have stayed and swayed with the models through the summer air to the sound of Siouxsie and the Banshees.

Back and forth. Back and forth, turn once, look fabulously bored, and twirl your undone hair – the perfect activity on a day like this. Karaleev’s fashion was like his models, idly hanging around on their lanky, long-limbed bodies. But what exquisite hanging!

Nothing fit perfectly, not one garment was crease-free, there was no glamour, no glitz, no glory, just clothes you’d want to wear. Right now. Because when you’re at the mercy of a heatwave, you need voluminous, airy materials, bermudas, and cotton maxi dresses more than you need your best friend.

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And whites in all shades, which don’t only work on holiday beaches. Extra freshness came in the form of large-scale prints – flowers and color blocks in blue, yellow, and orange – on shirts, or under transparent skirts. And oxygen poured in through slits in shirts and gaps between layers. Cooling just to look at. Thank you.

Photos Jessica Barthel
Text by Anne Postrach

This post is a collaboration with Derzeit

Berlin Fashion Week | Augustin Teboul

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You would think that presentations should give greater scope for designers to tell their story compared to the narrow confines of a runway show. Very rarely is that the case though.

Design duo Annelie Augustin and Odély Teboul really showed how it should be done. The scene was grand and sophisticated, with silver trays of vodka cocktails weaving amongst the guests and Chopin playing from a grand piano.

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The atmosphere on the other hand was full of sexual tension, like finding yourself at an exclusive high society party and forever feeling that an orgy is about to break out at any moment.

Models draped themselves across the couches and furniture in provocative poses, flowers arranged in huge sculptural forms rose up around them. Black lace was pulled tight across skin. Sheer silk, often embellished with glossy black beads, was draped from the shoulder and waist in varying volumes and lengths. A tougher edge took the form of leather jackets and pants in biker styles.

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Annelie Augustin and Odély Teboul

The word presentation doesn’t accurately describe the final result – this was a performance.

Text by James Castle

This post is a collaboration with Derzeit