Backstage at Daniela Barros during Porto fashion week

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Akkadian (from the sumerian city Akkad 24th century BC) collection from Daniela Barros.

Always influenced by mythology and divinities, strong feminity and dark melancholy. Daniela Barros this season, show us something more « sporty » giving us hoods, fluidity and some wrap around.

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I love the mesh work on the top (above)

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La Goth…


Yuka in the backstage of Bloom

La Goth loves skulls, ripper tights and darkness…

Many years ago (by the end of the eighties), being « a goth » was first of all about listening very specific music, then wearing special outfits and as i heard one day before a live show, « prefer death to life »… If you were a goth you had to assume to be scary for the others.

Today everyone has is goth day, you can listen to Lady Gaga, being a fan of japanimation, don’t know anything about Lovecraft, watching Sex and the City and spend your « holidays in the sun » and not in a cave.

All you have to do is having your hair dyed (blue, red, indigo), a ripped outfit, dark lipstick or some studs on your shoes and « Oh my God your daughter* is a goth ! » and if you have all of this, then you’re cursed!

Fashion takes it all (thanks to all the Versace, Galliano and McQueen) that made it glamour(!) and pretty. Goth is today, nothing related only with music, it’s a common word, still a bit borderline. It’s a trend, as color blocking, nude or the various trend of this summer…

Below, backstages at Bloom fashion show, march 2012, Lisboa and Porto

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PFW | Jay Ahr AW12

Jay Ahr, un nom de marque à consonance orientale, mais il n’en est rien. Il s’agit de la retranscription phonétique, en anglais, des initiales (JR) de son créateur Jonathan Riss.

Né à Paris, mais ayant vécu toute son enfance entre Bruxelles et Anvers il n’a pas suivi d’école de mode ou fait d’apprentissage dans un grande maison. Jonathan Riss possède un parcours singulier.

Tout commence à Dniepropetrovsk en Ukraine où il est directeur artistique d’une usine de fabrication de tissu pour l’armée soviétique… Puis ce sera l’Inde, l’Angola, New-York et enfin le retour à Paris.

Pendant toutes ces années il apprendra la broderie, montera des ateliers de joaillerie, apprendra les différents artisanats locaux, sera chercheur de diamants bruts…

A New York, il rassemblera toutes ses expériences pour faire les vitrines de Bergdorf Goodman et Barneys avant d’ouvrir Jay Ahr son propre studio de création de luxe à Paris.

Ses réalisations témoignent de son parcours atypique, le tissu est retravaillé, plissé, brodé créant des effets matières rappelant le travail d’artisan… de luxe.

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Ci-dessus, dans les couloirs de son studio on peut découvrir une autre facette du talent de Jonathan Riss.

Il expose 14 broderies de vertébrés qu’il a réalisé sur la base du travail Evolution du photographe Patrick Gries. Véritable mise en abîme avec le travail du photographe, chaque broderie retranscrit l’Evolution de cet art dans le temps aussi bien sur le plan culturel que technique.

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Un style qui marie les matières précieuses, la couture, la broderie et la joaillerie pour une mode authentique, hors des tendances mais pas déconnectée.

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PFW AW12 | Jan Taminiau, more than a woman

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Waoow!

Then the first model of Jan Taminiau show appears on the runway of Le Laboratoire and it was a big waoow!

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The girls are tall, very tall, unreachable beauty. Perched on very very high embroidered heels  (an hybrid shoes that both Lady Gaga and Daphne Guiness would appreciate) wearing embroidered silk veil cocktail dresses and a helmet (!) the girls seems to be a modern incarnation of Athena or coming from an other planet. The daughter of Barbarella going at a party or think Elie Saab meets Daft Punk.

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With the helmets and the shoes, it could seems an other fashion cliché crazyness, but it’s not. The dress are real, more for parties of course (he took inspiration from Studio 54 during the seventies) than your everyday work. Today, Jan Taminiau is making made to measure garments for his individual clients (mostly european).

Helmets!

The silhouette above reminds me the Giles Deacon « Pacman » collection for spring 2009.


Giles Deacon, Spring 2009

The girls are gorgeous.

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Tarnished beauty, is a romantic collection, a nostalgic extravaganza.

In the backstages Jan told me about his adoration of women, the importance of revealing themselves.

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He talked about is obsession of duality, symbolized (i suppose), by the softness of the dresses versus the boldness of the helmets. This collection is also a dialogue between masculinity and feminity.

The woman of Jan Taminiau is bigger than life, a goddess (his words), she is more than a woman.

 

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Bloom Portugal Fashion | Before the show


Below Bloom’s backstages

Bloom is the young blood, Bloom is the young portuguese designers fashion show during Portugal Fashion.

For this 4th edition taking place at MUDE (Museo de Design et da Moda) in Lisbon, Daniela Barros, Estelita Mendonça, Andreia Lexim and Hugo Costa are the designers selected by Miguel Flor.


Creation by Estelita Mendonça

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