Louis Vuitton, manufacture de souliers | Visite

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At Fiesso d’Artico a town near Venice, well known till the 13th century for is savoir-faire in shoe-making, you enter at La manufacture de souliers of Louis Vuitton and took the main street (rue principale in french) to go to one of the four ateliers.

Each is indicated with a colour (see above) and a specific name: Taïga for men shoes, Nomade for loafers (women and men), Speedy for sneakers (women and men) and Alma for « La femme élégante ».

Two production lines make a 5 steps process: the cutting / the prototypes are mixed with the production as the designers are working with the artisans / the quality control, the finishing (‘make up’ of the shoes) and the packing.

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There is three ways of cutting: with hand, with a pressing machine or with the computer (for better optimisation)

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Demie-mesure
« Demi-mesure » is not « made to mesure ». It’s a service that allow each client (men only) to choose between three shapes (Fenice, Ducale and Rialto), three stitchings (Norwegian, Goodyear and Blake) and a large choice of skins to create his own pair of souliers. The result is a choice between 3500 combinations!

Wait about 12 weeks for a basic model to 16 weeks for a more complicated one like little boots. The price ranging from 2000 to 8500 euros and as the colour (« the make up », the art of patina) is handmade (see below) you’ll be sure that your pair will be unique!

The demi-mesure service is only available in eight locations for now, Milan was first, then came Sydney, Tokyo, Miami, London, Shangaï, Monaco and Munich last week.

Since 2001, when it has been established, La manufacture de souliers combine the excellence in craftmanship and cutting-edge technology, the best of France and Italy.

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An artisan making a Norwegian stitch

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After and before sole’s patina

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The art of patina by two artisans or call it the « make-up of the shoes », give a unique result to the souliers, that’s also the beauty of the product !

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Voila !

 

 

Mad de ce casque

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Aussitôt vu, aussitôt acheté !

La sixième et dernière saison de Mad Men à pris son essor il y a quelques semaines. Lors du premier grand épisode (composé des deux premiers opus de la saison), Peggy Olson planche sur le budget Koss, entreprise créé en 1953 et créatrice du premier casque stéréo (1958).

On voit ces headphones sur Pete Campbell pendant la saison 5 (cf ci-dessous), je ne les avais pas notés alors.

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Pete Campbell, in Mad Men, season 5

Fébrilement j’ai parcouru les forum tout en continuant à regarder les tribulations de Don Draper et ses amis.

Koss a eu la bonne idée de continuer la fabrication de ce modèle (le Pro 4AA), il ne m’a pas fallu plus de quelques minutes pour que Google trouve sa trace et que je passe commande sur Amazon US!

Techniquement parlant, c’est un casque de studio pesant près de 600g (ouch!), ici point de « boom boom » flatteur pour les oreilles. Le rendu sonore semble alors « plat » pour l’utilisateur du Studio Beats HD que j’étais, faisant du casque du Dr Dre un sorte d’Instagram du casque. On pousse alors le son à fond pour retrouver ces « tchump tchump», ce son qui courtise l’oreille. Rien.

On retrouve l’essentiel, un son plus modeste, plus authentique et moins bling, un casque que Koss garantie à vie !

Classy, vintage, stylish, dotés de cette élégance propre à leur époque, il est irrésistible.

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The craftsmen | Manufacture de souliers, Louis Vuitton, Venice

I start using Vine in Venice a few days ago at la Manufacture de souliers of Louis Vuitton. I capture this precious moments when the craftsmen are working.

Each craftsmen control the previous operation and make theirs meticulously, no default is tolerated, and if one is discovered the production line is immediately stop and checked. Some defects are invisible by common people.

The video below is a compilation of my first Vine, a quick view of what we saw and learn this day.

PFW | Nicolas Theil

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Nicolas Theil, wearing own designed glasses (3D printed by himself)

Dear readers,
my friend Harvey Ambomo, a real dandy, always sports edgy accessories and especially very beautiful bags, told me months ago, about Nicolas Theil, the brilliant creator of these leather goods.

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Nicolas Theil showed earlier this month at W Paris Opéra his new summer/spring 2013-2014 collection « Floraison radioactive ». As expected the collection is gorgeous.

During the little interview, I discover a very pleasant, enthusiastic and funny guy. His presentation starts in a iconoclastic way with his friends giggling, passing through the audience wearing big glasses and fluorescent yellow anti-radiations outfits (see below)!

Nicolas is a former-engineer student, then Duperré. This course reveals a singular person, but his creations are not like an engineer-designing-fashion, with a sort of rigidity (sorry for the widespread).

Nicolas seems to be a very sensitive boy, very style-conscious with a meaning. His bags are modern, trendy and most of them could be worn by men or women. It’s no surprise to find in his works a desire of mixing styles, ideas and fabrics on a same bag when you know that he used to work with Jean-Paul Gaultier’s team, the master of mixity.

By his way of working, the expertise, the materials used and the locally made (all the fabrication is handcrafted and made in France) we can say that Nicolas Theil is a young designer making luxury bags. And as shown on the picture below, Nicolas is also designing jewelry and glasses.

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Harvey Ambomo, socialite & DJ

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Please find Nicolas Theil here

3D Fashion, a new ‘savoir-faire’?

 

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Dear readers,

I am a subscriber of Wired magazine for years now, in october 2012, they launch an issue with a 3D printer on the cover. This issue tell us more than technique: 3D printer were a few months to become the next christmas gift (and not only for geek). That’s mean that 3D printing is gonna go mainstream…

Accessory makers already have a perfect field of expression. Look at these shoes non-workable whitout 3D techniques.

Marieka Ratsma-Kostika Spaho.


‘Morphogenesis’ 3D printed shoe by dutch designer Pauline Van Dongen

‘Strvct’ 3D printed shoe by Continuum, $900, here

3D printers is the next big thing for creatives, just look at Iris Van Herpen « Hybrid Holism » striking looks made with belgian-based atelier MGX by Materialise. The possibilities of creation seems to be infinite as you avoid some technicals difficulties due to seams and joining.

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Iris Van Herpen, « Hybrid Holism » collection AW 2012/2013, read a review here

Technologies evolves quickly and actually 3D printers can create object containing different materials. Application fields seems endless (living cells, fooding, etc.)

Some people thinks that 3D printing is much more revolutionary than internet, I am not that far from their point of view. But as with internet, are we gonna create an other virtual world sometimes too far from certain realities and production system? Actually most of the shoes design are not really wearable, the materials are too weak, but things are going fast.

Design it, print it, sell it !

Internet help democratizes the information, today it’s a 5 mn process to launch a blog a talk about anything you want. Will 3D printing help the democratization of little productions? In a few years « we will be able » to print iPhone cases, kitchenware, bangles or with a giant 3D printer, our house!

Also, fashion design schools will find a tool to help their students at creating and exploring new designs.

A new « savoir-faire » for luxury businesses?

Does 3D printing a next field for luxury brands, helping them create made to measure and exclusive furnitures using luxury materials?

E-artcrafting, a new kind of artcrafting and ‘savoir-faire’ is about to be created. As giant 3D printers are a subject of thinking by certains companies, imagine a luxury yacht with very exclusive (and crazy) design for very wealthy people…

« Your imagination is the limit ».

Also check, Nicolas Theil 3D-printed glasses here

Delvaux, oldest existing leather house

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Dear readers,

a few days ago, the historic belgian atelier Delvaux was showing new collection at Downtown studio, Paris

Founded in 1829, Delvaux is the oldest existing leather house in the world.

Exclusivity, craftmanship and fine materials is what luxury is about. Even today there is no industrialisation in the process of making at the atelier, every piece is handmade.

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The designers at Delvaux are inspired by all the historic creations of the atelier.

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Mr Jean Colonna

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Delvaux really keep tradition where others became industrialised, they like to be compared to Geneva watchmakers.

Be Mine’s party

 

Fatima Lopes, last week, during Be Mine’s, her first fragrance, launching party.

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Twenty years after her begining on the fashion scene, thirteen years after her parisian debut, Fatima Lopes launch her first fragrance. Aurélien Guichard who recently create Pleats Please for Issey Miyake, has to translate the intuitive, bold, daring and feminine world of portuguese designer Fatima Lopes.

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A diamond on a cube

The campaign, a man and a woman half-naked shot in black and white. Daring or not?

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From left, Ellen Von Unwerth, Fatima Lopes and Aurélien Guichard, perfumer

Fashion | Niels Peeraer

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Niels Peeraer, got his Master degree of Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp in june 2011 he talks about his latest creations showed at Zip Zone.

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« I am focus on unisex leather accessories, i think it’s my strong aspect of my work since we met for my graduation (1 year ago). My clothes are to extreme and i got many responses with my accessories. »

About your style

« I keep my own aesthetic, i try to balance the very tough leather, the metal pieces, the straight corners with the colour and the cutouts to create a cute design.

I try to create very useful and creative bags. Creativity don’t have to impact functionality. »

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About the material and fabrication

« The material is vegetable-tanned leather so it darkens a lot in time. All those bags are hand made and the production will start in Spain. I created my own technique as i never learn the art of making leather bags before. There is no sewings involved, everything is maintain with studs and screws, that give a much stronger and cleaner line. »

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You can find Niels Peeraer bags in Ra Paris, Ra antwerp, Joyce in Hong-Kong and Nicolas Formichetti’s pop-up store in Beijing in august

Event | Camper love Paris

20TH ANNIVERSARY OF CAMPER’S ARRIVAL IN PARIS, MANY FRIENDS AND DESIGNERS FOR THIS EVENT.

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ACCESSORIES DESIGNER, SASKIA DIEZ

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BELGIAN TROOPS JEAN PAUL LESPAGNARD, LÉA PECKRE AND FRIEND

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LORENZO FLUXÀ FOUNDER OF CAMPER AND LORENZO FLUXÀ JR.

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DESIGNER YIQIN YIN

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LORENZO FLUXÀ, DIDIER GRUMBACH AND BERNHARD WILLEHLM

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THIS WOMAN WORK WITH AND WEAR THIS TERRIFIC BERNHARD WILLHELM DESIGN