Mesmerize by Miserere mei, Deus

I discover this music during a trip to Vienna at the Secession museum some years ago. It was used by british artist Mark Wallinger (Turner Prize winner,2007) for his video « Threshold to the Kingdom (2000) », a slow motion video of people coming through automatic double doors at an airport (London’s international, but could be anywhere else).

The music is a 1980 recording of Gregorio Allegri’s « Miserere mei, Deus » by the famous Tallis Scholars.

Mesmerizing…

NB: « Threshold to the Kingdom » could be seen here, recorded by a fan

j j j

PFW | Nicolas Theil

nicolas-theil-3d-glasses-1

Nicolas Theil, wearing own designed glasses (3D printed by himself)

Dear readers,
my friend Harvey Ambomo, a real dandy, always sports edgy accessories and especially very beautiful bags, told me months ago, about Nicolas Theil, the brilliant creator of these leather goods.

nicolas-theil-1

Nicolas Theil showed earlier this month at W Paris Opéra his new summer/spring 2013-2014 collection « Floraison radioactive ». As expected the collection is gorgeous.

During the little interview, I discover a very pleasant, enthusiastic and funny guy. His presentation starts in a iconoclastic way with his friends giggling, passing through the audience wearing big glasses and fluorescent yellow anti-radiations outfits (see below)!

Nicolas is a former-engineer student, then Duperré. This course reveals a singular person, but his creations are not like an engineer-designing-fashion, with a sort of rigidity (sorry for the widespread).

Nicolas seems to be a very sensitive boy, very style-conscious with a meaning. His bags are modern, trendy and most of them could be worn by men or women. It’s no surprise to find in his works a desire of mixing styles, ideas and fabrics on a same bag when you know that he used to work with Jean-Paul Gaultier’s team, the master of mixity.

By his way of working, the expertise, the materials used and the locally made (all the fabrication is handcrafted and made in France) we can say that Nicolas Theil is a young designer making luxury bags. And as shown on the picture below, Nicolas is also designing jewelry and glasses.

nicolas-theil-6

nicolas-theil-2

nicolas-theil-3

nicolas-theil-4

nicolas-theil-5


Harvey Ambomo, socialite & DJ

nicolas-theil-7

Please find Nicolas Theil here

j j j

3D Fashion, a new ‘savoir-faire’?

 

wired-3d-printing

Dear readers,

I am a subscriber of Wired magazine for years now, in october 2012, they launch an issue with a 3D printer on the cover. This issue tell us more than technique: 3D printer were a few months to become the next christmas gift (and not only for geek). That’s mean that 3D printing is gonna go mainstream…

Accessory makers already have a perfect field of expression. Look at these shoes non-workable whitout 3D techniques.

Marieka Ratsma-Kostika Spaho.


‘Morphogenesis’ 3D printed shoe by dutch designer Pauline Van Dongen

‘Strvct’ 3D printed shoe by Continuum, $900, here

3D printers is the next big thing for creatives, just look at Iris Van Herpen « Hybrid Holism » striking looks made with belgian-based atelier MGX by Materialise. The possibilities of creation seems to be infinite as you avoid some technicals difficulties due to seams and joining.

iris-van-herpen-hybrid-holism-1

iris-van-herpen-hybrid-holism-3

iris-van-herpen-hybrid-holism-4

iris-van-herpen-hybrid-holism-5

iris-van-herpen-hybrid-holism-6

iris-van-herpen-hybrid-holism-7
Iris Van Herpen, « Hybrid Holism » collection AW 2012/2013, read a review here

Technologies evolves quickly and actually 3D printers can create object containing different materials. Application fields seems endless (living cells, fooding, etc.)

Some people thinks that 3D printing is much more revolutionary than internet, I am not that far from their point of view. But as with internet, are we gonna create an other virtual world sometimes too far from certain realities and production system? Actually most of the shoes design are not really wearable, the materials are too weak, but things are going fast.

Design it, print it, sell it !

Internet help democratizes the information, today it’s a 5 mn process to launch a blog a talk about anything you want. Will 3D printing help the democratization of little productions? In a few years « we will be able » to print iPhone cases, kitchenware, bangles or with a giant 3D printer, our house!

Also, fashion design schools will find a tool to help their students at creating and exploring new designs.

A new « savoir-faire » for luxury businesses?

Does 3D printing a next field for luxury brands, helping them create made to measure and exclusive furnitures using luxury materials?

E-artcrafting, a new kind of artcrafting and ‘savoir-faire’ is about to be created. As giant 3D printers are a subject of thinking by certains companies, imagine a luxury yacht with very exclusive (and crazy) design for very wealthy people…

« Your imagination is the limit ».

Also check, Nicolas Theil 3D-printed glasses here

j j j

Art of fashion foundation student competition 2013

aoff-2013-intro

One week left for students to register to the 12th International Arts of Fashion Student Competition 2013, created by Nathalie Doucet. The competition theme is Resilience and the deadline to receive projects is – April 1st, 2013.

You can also register for the interesting MasterClass at Les Arts Decoratifs – le Louvre, Paris that take place this summer (June 24 to July 19, 2013).

All infos are here

j j j

OK at galerie Kreo | opening night

galerie-kreo-ok-16

Front window, Galerie Kreo, Paris, friday, march 22th

Dear readers,

from March 22th to May 11th 2013 galerie Kreo is showing a collection of unseen pieces with no peculiar theme by…

galerie-kreo-ok-1
François Azambourg, « Goat » tables

galerie-kreo-ok-5
« Arc » lamp

galerie-kreo-ok-2
Studio Wieki Somers, « Money clock » made with 1440 1$ bills (1440 are for the amount of minutes in a day)

galerie-kreo-ok-13
« Frozen chest »

galerie-kreo-ok-3
Hella Jongerius, « Glass » table

galerie-kreo-ok-4
Didier Krzentowski

galerie-kreo-ok-6
Brynjar Sigurdarson, « Tree trunk bench »

galerie-kreo-ok-7

galerie-kreo-ok-8
François Bauchet, « cellae »

galerie-kreo-ok-9
Jean-Baptiste Fastrez, « Stromboli » coffee table

galerie-kreo-ok-10
Pierre Charpin, « Crescendo », coffee table

galerie-kreo-ok-11
Clémence Krzentowski

galerie-kreo-ok-12
Ronan & Erwan Bouroullec, « Desklight » lamp

galerie-kreo-ok-14

galerie-kreo-ok-15

 

j j j

PFW | Showroom Belgium

showroom-belgium-no-season-8

Dear readers,
this is a short review of the belgian designers set at Showroom Belgium during the last Paris Fashion Week. It’s a new generation of designers, most of them work for many seasons, some of them are new. In any case I advise you to visit their website.

Filles à papa

showroom-belgium-no-season-10

showroom-belgium-no-season-7

Filles à Papa is made by Carol and Sarah, two sisters. Season after season their sporty-punk style is getting better and better.
F.A.P are here

Krjst

showroom-belgium-no-season-2

Second collection of Krjst an other collective Justine de Moriamé and Erika Schillebeeckx, the prints (made with Monsieur Pimpant) and embroidery are incredible.
Krjst is here

Alice Knackfuss

showroom-belgium-no-season-12

After working at Kris Van Assche studio, Alice Knackfuss started her brand in 2011. This season strong prints also mixed with tailored jacket.
Find her work here

No pictures taken but also to discover, the collection of Calogero di Natale and Marc Philippe Coudeyre.

j j j

PFW | Tsolo Munkh, Venus in leather

tsolo-6b

Tsolo Munkh creation for fall 2013, beads, leather and snakeskin

Tsolmandakh Munkhuu, her full name, embroider, pinch and cut the leather with an obsessive way.

Back after two tough years, she was supported by Cyrille Chardon (RIP) from the begining, Tsolo Munkh don’t forget where she comes from and work upon her Mongolian influence and nomadism.


Smocked tank, every smocks is made one by one by hand, then maintain with a string of leather knotted at the ends.

The chest concentrates the handcrafting as if it was an armour and the double belt work, highlighting the waist, add feminity to the shape.

The outfits may seems heavy, but i can assure you that they are not. The fluidity of the leather is the first thing you notice.

This collection was quickly made, it’s a spontaneous collection and this is its strength. Prize winner of Festival de la Mode d’Hyères in 2010, the silhouettes earned lightness, showing that Tsolo is evolving, slowly, towards a more urban and accessible silhouette.

tsolo-3

tsolo-4

tsolo-1

tsolo-5

tsolo-10

tsolo-7

tsolo-14

tsolo-13

tsolo-12
Necklaces, plastron, using beads, leather and snakeskin, accessories are always important for Tsolo Munkh

tsolo-16

tsolo-15

Tsolo Munkh is here

j j j

PFW | Showroom Berlin

showroom-berlin-10

A quick view of Berlin-based designers i have noticed during Paris Fashion Week at Showroom Berlin.

Michael Sontag

showroom-berlin-1
Michael Sontag, fall 2013

Michael Sontag is working around the draped and fluidity

showroom-berlin-2
Michael Sontag, designer (left) with assistant/model

Read the review done with german publication Derzeit

His work is best viewed here

Esther Perbandt

showroom-berlin-4

showroom-berlin-3
Esther Perbandt, designer

After her studies (IFM, Paris) Esther worked for Chacock in the new design team created in 2001 in south of France to revamp the label. In 2004 she create her own label around the idea of androgyny, « playing with the roles ». The collection, full of details, is not specially for men or women she said.

Some shirt or pants are very interesting if you take time to observe, giving you a sort of rocky-chic look. Actually she’s is selling in Hong Kong, Japan and Germany.

Please discover the collection here

Butterflysoulfire

showroom-berlin-5
Shake the shirt and the LED blinks (last only after 178000 flashes)!

showroom-berlin-6

Funny stuff, part of « Pulse », a brand new project bringing the light into fashion for nightbirds only !

I also like it because it reminds me the work (upon the enlightened garments) of this two ones from CPRN.

Please look at their designs here

Tres Bonjour

showroom-berlin-8

showroom-berlin-7

I am not talking about wearability here, but i love the graphics rendering of this collection made by latex specialist Sandra Dresp and Viola Jaeger, creators of the label Tres Bonjour.

Please look at their work here

Berlin is no longer (only) the city of underground and « obskur » designs and designers as most of us think it is, the cliché. A new generation are more prepare to go « mainstream », with more stylish creation, while keeping their singularity.

Feel free to check Don’t Shoot The Messengers (DSTM) and Augustin Teboul, my favorite german labels, that didn’t show at Showroom Berlin but in private locations.

j j j