PFW | Alexandre Vauthier

Dear readers,

His glamorous amazons goes back and forth on the runway without any constraints, they are beautiful, bold and gold, some of them, like the girl in James Bond’ Goldfinger are totally dress in gold.

The golden girls

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Casual Couture, a golden shirt with rolled sleeves.

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The colour palette from white to creme is very soft leaving gold and embroideries full room to express themselves.

The result is compelling. How can you resist to these girls?

Paddings are almost everywhere as the V of Vauthier (V for Victory?) in the dangerous necklines, the cuts and the accessories (see the earrings below).

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When a dangerous-V-neckline padded dress is left full white (above), the accessories does the job. Golden Louboutin and gold bangle.

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You have it all, jumpsuits, dresses, skirts, shirts, evening gowns. All very chic and dynamic.

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Wow Vauthier ! Vamp me i’m famous !

The show is nearly perfect, each silhouette is stunning and leave you amazed and speachless. The sexual powered silhouette, the eighties, the show business, as the former assistant of Thierry Mugler, Alexandre Vauthier is giving is own personnal touch of this symbols fully used by his master. At this game is actually the best in town.

Combining the European crisis and a slowdown in China, the luxury market is gonna get weaker. Does Alexandre Vauthier superwoman has a future? What the next move?

 

 


Berlin Fashion Week | Hannes Kettritz

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Was that one collection or two? Sure, there was something of an 80’s vibe that ran throughout but it wasn’t really enough to hold the whole thing together.

Success came in the form of sportswear, the brightly coloured gym shorts had a Californian beach feel, as did the vests and tees they were matched with.

I really liked the way Hannes Kettritz cut the patterns, creating interesting shapes and incorporating concealed pockets. The same can be said of the bomber jackets, particularly one in grey suede with dropped notched lapels I would have stolen right off the models back. But then there was the tailoring. The broad shouldered, boxy cuts wouldn’t have flattered a cardboard box. When made from shinny twisted yarn fabrics the inspiration appeared to be Elton John – if he had taken a job as a bingo caller.

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Towards the end, as I noticed amused expressions (or bemused maybe?) spreading along the row of faces beside the catwalk, I thought other people were as confused as I was. Then the model turned around, revealing his raincoat had a clear plastic back and that he wore absolutely nothing underneath. This surely wasn’t the same show we started with? In one sense only, was I glad to see the back of it.

An article in collaboration with Derzeit
Text by by James Castle
Photos by Phillip Koll