Berlin Fashion Week | Michael Sontag

michael-sontag -2

Keen observers of Michael Sonntag, of which I myself am included, have long since realized his work is something of a continuous progression and not open to the fads and whimsy that other designers often follow.

And why should it? You can see there is a clear vision, from someone with the skill to follow it through. He has such a talent for creating silhouettes that appear breathtakingly sculptural and yet perfectly wearable all at once.

michael-sontag -3

This collection had a slightly more graphic direction than the ones that have preceded it, black and white combined to striking effect. Shades of red, blue and yellow appeared in patches but were used as highlights rather than a focus. I didn’t even mind that the models walked so slowly, it allowed more time to take in the clothes that had a real three-dimensional quality and were interesting from whichever angle you looked at them.

michael-sontag -4

michael-sontag -1

Generously cut jackets hung off the shoulder, the stiff fabrics creating soft waves across the back. Trousers billowed from the thigh. A number of ankle length silk dresses draped from the neck and weaved into improbable patterns over the models’ bodies.

As always, the whole thing left me excited to see where he goes next.

Text by James Castle for Derzeit
Photos by Jessica Barthel


Berlin Fashion Week | Dietrich Emter


Falling prey to a greater trend of temporal aimlessness, Dietrich Emter’s Spring/Summer 2013 collection mixed influences spanning the entire history of modern fashion without any particular emphasis on a style or trend.

Emter has stuck with his ready-to-wear principles -simple cuts and lines augmented by the strategic use of pleats. Coats, pants, blouses and dresses fall somewhere between futuristic, classic modern and 70s polyester, with no cohesive narrative other than the colors.

Plain white dominated, followed by royal blue and metallic orange, emerging in a slow gradation, first in a colored tree branch pattern, then in nearly monochromatic pieces. In a few short moves, the collection jumped from a simple white minidress with a patterned, pleated corner in the skirt, to a shimmering, retro-future type dress with sharp shoulders and a double-wide clasped belt at the waist.




The pieces de resistance, though, were a series of maxi and mini dresses reminiscent of mother-and-me nightgown sets from an old Quelle catalogue -and just in case you forget who designed it, Emter has helpfully stamped his tree branch mosaic with his initials.

Text by Tara Dominguez for Derzeit
Photos by Jessica Barthel

Small Train, Vertu de luxe


Paris june 2012, Galerie Nikki Diana Marquardt.


Vertu the ex-luxury brand of Nokia now part of Swedish financial investor EQT has commissioned a photographic exhibition of Mary Mac Cartney to help Smile Train an association dedicated in helping the children suffering from cleft lip or palate.