Modoscopie | Olivia Hainaut rocks that!

Olivia Hainaut and I met during october at Showroom Belgium. We only spend a few minutes talking and exchanging business cards. I took a quick look at the jewels she creates and then go to see the others designers, my schedule was tight.

Two weeks ago i was in Brussels and we take time with Dominique Lefèbvre (WBI) to have a lunch with Olivia at Junkfood Deluxe by Quentin, speak freely and visit her atelier.

Olivia is from the french side of Belgium, studied at Les Beaux-Arts then at La Cambre. Her parents, a psychoanalyst mother who used to wear Sonia Rykiel, Paco Rabanne, smoke cigars and a father who used to grow sideburns and had a little monkey who play in his textile factory, were « eccentrics in love with fashion » she said, « they spend time organizing parties in their Vasarely-like apartment ».

From this era Olivia keeps the taste of beautiful things, fashion and luxury.

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Olivia Hainaut’s window shop

Inside the workshop and showroom

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Paco Rabanne’s « 1969 » iconic chainmail bag

Passionate about movies, she first want to work for the cinema and did photo styling. Romy Schneider, her favorite actress, was one of our first subject of discussion talking about her beauty and the movies La Piscine, Les Choses de la vie or L’Enfer.

Olivia is also a big fan of all the hottest actress of the seventies, Gina Lollobrigida, Sophia Loren, Ursula Andress, Monica Vitti. During the dessert we talk about Madness on the roofs of Buckingham Palace for the diamond jubilee. We sung Lovecats, from The Cure(!), remember Blondie, Siouxsie and all that punk-rock music. We talked about the looks of these bands especially Olivia who we wore them all (from rockabilly to new-wave)!

After this experience she starts her own collection of jewelry and show it to Natan, the great belgian fashion house. Immediately they ask for her skills and she starts making beading, embroideries for cocktail and weddings dresses for more than ten years. At that time all that she learned and earned was invested in her personal collection. Things were going well, her creations were sold in Paris at Le Bon Marché until september 11th…

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A finely crafted leather scarf, each model is cut in a full animal skin and therefore is unique. I couldn’t resist to buy one in black,.

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From gold, metallic, fluo or mat, dozens of colors are available. Everything is carefully crafted in Italy

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Today she’s no longer collaborate with Natan, developing her brand is the main goal. But as she told me it’s difficult nowdays for independents designers and she need more collaborations or internship in a more established house (Jean-Paul Gaultier, Alexander McQueen will be a must).
Most of the time belgian people (french) prefer buy foreign brands than local ones, while the flemish support their Ann Demeulmesteer, Dries Van Noten or Bruno Pieters. In general belgian designers have better recognition outside the country.

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All these experiences and influences are the core of her work, her main creations mix something dark and shiny, sophisticated and raw, sharp and soft.

More at Olivia Hainaut’s website

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Future talents | Antwerp, Miquel Boutens (boys don’t cry)

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Chers lecteurs,

one of my favorite designer this year at the graduation show of Antwerp’s Academy was Miquel Boutens with his collection inspired by Le petit prince. In the middle of the creative uproar appeared delicate silhouettes wearing light fabrics with pastel colors and gold.

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Fragile and powerful, the silhouettes have short pants with silk capes. It’s like little boys playing a game where they would be emperors. It reminds me of the young Malcom McDowell playing Caligula (see below), so innocent and so cruel.

Angel face: Malcom McDowell in Caligula (1979)

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With colors and fabrics usually shown in women collections, all the gold and embroideries « like stars falling from the sky » on a navy jacket, the imaginary boys of Miquel Boutens are very poetic. But looking at them you’ll notice that they are not « weak », metrosexual, nor caricatural. Those garments are the expression of a dream. Miquel Boutens (4th grade) won two prizes, the Flanders Fashion Institute Award and the Feeling x Essentiel prize

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Estefânia’s birthday

I met Estefania two years ago in Porto, during the fashion week. We were wandering in the corridors. She was with her friend, Hector Olguin, photographer. We exchange smiles, have a cocktail, look at the Douro by the window and we became friends.

Estefânia is the kind of person you can’t live without. She always have a good or amazing story to tell. Last time it was all about punk music in Portugal.

In Adorna Corações, her boutique/showroom where she host others designers and artists she spend time telling me the story of portuguese punk bands, then leave to kiss a client and come back to the story. Estefânia is exuberant. Most of this bands are friends as she used to work for them as a producer, famous Paulo Furtado himself (aka Legendary Tigerman and singer of ska band Wraygunn) is also a good friend.

I was fascinated and i promise you a post about this era and those bands!

The animated gif above was taken during a lunch. Estefania gave us a good laugh when she got up from table to explain how she tried to descend the stairs of Palais de Tokyo with her rollers(!) avoiding photographers who took pictures… of the movie star just behind her (yes she thought she was paparizzed).

We agreed to say that this movie star was just a @&#$ !

Estefania is a internationally renowned contemporary jeweller and curator, more in a next post i promised. She also have a great look (yes it could be also an other post).

Yesterday was her birthday and this post is my present.

Thanks for your « bonne humeur » Estefania. Love !


Adorna Corações, centro comercial Bombarda, rua Miguel Bombarda

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PJ Harvey, absolument

Polly Jean Harvey is definitively one of my favorite artist, even if her music, years after years became more difficult to apprehend.

Stay true to yourself, no compromise.

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Agent M7, absolument

My M7 sounds like a secret agent code, think 007 or Agent X27…

Masculine and warmth, created in 2002, the ad campaign directed by Tom Ford then art director of Yves Saint Laurent, was inspired by 1962’s Jean Loup Sief’s serie. The ad was showing tae kwon do champion Samuel de Cubber in all his glory.

Beautifully repackage this year, with graphic style, and now with some notes of bois de oud, the fragrance is still very masculine: oriental, dark and luxurious.

Absolument nécessaire

 

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Desy Sáfan-Gerard | Body conscious

A performance of the artist Desy Safan-Gerard with the model Maria Clark.

Transversalité artistique

This performance was a perfect cross-over between dance, music and illustration.


Desy Safan-Gerard born in Chile, studied both music composition and psychology before becoming a painter.


2005

During 30 minutes, Maria Clark, the model, strikes poses on the contemporary music of Pierre Boulez: Notations I, II, IV and VII using her body as a medium, while the artist Desy Safan-Gerard is translating the gestures and the music on canvas. The process is completely improvised.

At the end we were a bit astonished, like in a transe both by the performance, the physical presence of Maria and the music, it could have continued, as you only start seeing the multiple conversations between the painter, the performer and the music.
I ask to the artist if she did such works with different kind of music. She responds that she did it with Shostakovich and Piazzola, and perhaps it could be interesting to see the results on experimental musicians like Thelonious Monk or Kraftwerk.


2002

Corinne Bonnet owner of galerie Dufay-Bonnet gave us an unusual experience, a travel in time, with the add of a public reader it would have looked like we were back in caves in New York City or Paris during the sixties.

Watch the video.

Desy Safan-Gerard website
Maria Clark website

 

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Influences

« Il vaut mieux suivre la mode, même si elle est laide.

S’en éloigner c’est devenir aussitôt un personnage comique ce qui est terrifiant.

Personne n’est assez fort pour être plus fort que la mode. »

(Gabrielle Chanel)

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Marcel Marongiu little dresses

Easy to wear, easy to change, depending of your mood, is the little collection designed by Marcel Marongiu – art director of Guy Laroche – for les 3 Suisses. Each dresses highlights a part of the body, chest, legs, hips, shoulders.

Five designs in five colors, five dresses In tune with their time.

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